The Natchez Trace and Loveless Cafe

On September 25, 2004, Lisa and I decided to take our first REAL road trip in our Mustang.  We wanted it to be a peaceful, scenic drive with the top down and the wind in our hair, so we decided to tour the beautiful Natchez Trace.

The Natchez Trace stretches 444 miles from the Mississippi River in Natchez, Mississippi, to the Tennessee Valley in Nashville. The Old Trace was made by buffalo and first used by Native Americans.  Later traders used the route to walk home rather than fight the Mississippi currents.  With that advent of the steamboat the dangerous trail was abandoned and by the mid-1820’s the Old Trace disappeared.

Today, a National Scenic Byway, administered by the National Park Service, follows the Old Trace.  The road’s scenic beauty is unspoiled with no commercial businesses, signs or residences.  Along the way numerous historic sites, exhibits, picnic sites, campgrounds and water recreation areas make the trip even more interesting.  But for those speed freaks this route is not for you, the speed limit on the Trace is only 50 miles per hour. 

For our trip we decided not to drive the entire distance of the Trace, but rather catch it near the Tennessee state line and head north.  We drove south on Interstate 65 until we came to Highway 64.  There we headed west, through Pulaski to Lawrenceburg.  A few miles west of Lawrenceburg we caught the Trace and headed north.

The day was sunny with mild temperatures, perfect weather for a convertible.  Along our trek the Natchez Trace did not disappoint with its magnificent beauty and wildlife.  Deer and wild turkeys were often sited amidst the rolling green hills and forests.  Traffic along the route was virtually nonexistent, often finding ourselves the only vehicle in site. 

Gas stops seemed to be a problem however.  There are no gas stations or signs telling you where a station is on the Trace, and finding one on an adjacent highway was a bit scary.  Running on fumes we took the Summertown exit and drove east for several miles before finding a BP.  Topping off we retraced our route and were soon back on our scenic drive. 

After a couple of hours, making a couple of stops along the way, we soon found ourselves at the end of the Trace in Nashville.  But our trip didn’t end there.  At the north end of the route, where the Trace meets Highway 100, stands a local landmark, the Loveless Café.

Originally the Harpeth Valley Tea Room the Loveless Motel and Café started in 1951 serving its famous fried chicken and biscuits.  Over the years the café gained a reputation and many country stars and celebrities found it the place to be.  The motel ceased operation in 1985, but the dining area is still home of some of the finest food in Nashville.   Lisa and I had to stop and taste some of the wonderful country cooking and it was everything it claimed to be.